Trend Direction: SHARP PERFORMERS

Close Up - Weatherproof

Teflon spray for repelling moisture and wipe clean surfaces. Coatings serve to create a wind barrier. PU and leather look coatings resist rain as well as adding a certain attitude. 

Hollow core yarns result in lightness, warmth and speed of drying. Double layering of lighter weights in blends of nylon and Tencel for dry performance and moisture management. 

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

Trend Direction: SHARP PERFORMERS

Stretch is an essential element for active jeanswear. Super high stretch with lowest growth is a must for performance retention as well as slender silhouettes. Not only do these jeans look like they perform but they must really do so. Dual FX yarns or Lycra Beauty from Invista or simple spun polyester blends are some of the blends which will ensure perfect recovery performance in super high stretch denims. Some other key performance attributes are:  water resistant, breathable coatings; moisture management fibres such as Coolmax; insulated denims with Thermolite; super strong denims with Dyneema or Cordura from Invista; Anti-bacterial treatments for odour control using Silvadur technology or microbial treatments from Archroma

Invista makes Coolmax, Thermolite, Cordura, Dual FX, Lycra Beauty and other high performance fibres for denim.  Dow chemicals makes Silvadur and Pulcra.  NDL makes Fextreme performance stretch blends.

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

... And of course supreme high stretch in a MUST for the best performance both in and out of the gym for all your Athleisure needs.

Trend Direction: FESTIVAL

Close Up - Bleached

Shibori hand dyed MiH overshirt in vibrant indigo.  Smock style wears as a mini dress or painters overall shirt.

Tie dyes; crackle finishes; splash dye effects and resist dyeing.  All in high contrast starting with extreme dark indigo bleached out to almost white.

To achieve dip dye at home simply dip the bottom into a bowl of bleach, let it dwell for a time emerging further up the garment for a shorter time to get a graduated look.  Then splash and flick more bleach liberally with a paintbrush to get the splattered look.

Wild dye effects where extreme contrast is achieved by stitching in pleats, white spray bleaching, releasing when the garment is dry.  Before the pleats are released this garment has been acid washed as well.  The acid wash is achieved by soaking the pumice stones in a strong solution of bleach and tumbling them together with the garment in a dry drum. Acid wash must not be attempted at home.

Trend Direction: FESTIVAL

Close Up - Jacquards and Prints

Lurex star jacquard. Can also be translated as a print. This denim is reversible lighter on one side and darker on the other.

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

Faded out multi pattern print enhanced by hand stitching and extra stone washed fading.  Looks great in wide legged cut offs. 

See below for a similar denim from a well known brand, Current Elliot.

Current Elliot Boyfriend Cropped Print £250

Current Elliot Boyfriend Cropped Print £250

Multi pattern woven jaquard below reminiscent of Navaho decoration.

Tropical acid print onto denim shirt. After printing the shirt has been enzyme washed to fade out the print but not to wear it out with a stone wash. 

BEHIND THE SCENES : The Colour

Cotton yarn is raw white before we add the all important indigo colour dye.  

These are charming drawings of a dye range, beaming and slashing processes by Danny Southern late of Burlington Denim.  All are part of putting indigo colour onto the cotton yarn

©The Denim Eye 2016

©The Denim Eye 2016

A modern rope dye range showing cotton ropes before being immersed in the indigo baths or boxes.

There are traditionally a number of boxes through which the indigo can pass. Circulation pumps are used with individual boxes so that the depth and concentration of the indigo can be controlled in each box or in the number of dips. The question of numbers of dips which refers to the depth of the shade is misleading.  12 dips is regarded as being the darkest but there are not in fact 12 actual dips, the extreme depth is achieved by slowing the speed of the range to allow longer dwell time in each bath.  

Today the most modern dye ranges can in fact support 12 dye boxes thereby having the ability to create the most extreme depths of indigo shade.

©The Denim Eye 2016

©The Denim Eye 2016

The rope dye range with coiled ropes after being immersed in the indigo dye baths,

©The Denim Eye 2016

©The Denim Eye 2016

Decorated commercial yarn transportation in Pakistan.  

Traditional transport in Pakistan which still exists today. Mostly however such transport has been replaced by the Tuk Tuk which is a motor scooter with an integral carriage.

Trend Direction: FESTIVAL

Vintage

Real originals such as Fiorucci and Mr Freedom 70's pieces. Below original 1970's Fiorucci skirt. Note, pretty beading and liberty print edging and blanket stitching - all great ideas for your own customisation.

Note the skirt panels are all different denims which each have worn differently over time.

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

The jeans in the shoot below were from a 'decorate your denim' competition held by Levi in the 1970s and shot by Sam Haskins, but were never used commercially. Such decoration led to the start of Levi commercially offering customisation to their retail customers. 

Trend Direction: FESTIVAL

Wear It - Festival

Decorate with braids and beads, badges and bows.

Wear chunky ankle boots with frayed cut offs to emphasise your calves. 

Embroidery in primary brights give your old denims a folksy flavour. 

Mixed patterns and mixed fabrics look spontaneous and fresh.

Collage ©TheDenimEye2016. Individual images (clockwise from top) ©topshop.com, ©foxyzingaro.blogspot.co.uk, ©wildandfreejewelry.com, ©studded-hearts.com, ©drielys.com, ©bewithstyle.com, ©lelookbcn.tumblr.com/lelook.eu, ©aviewfromtheshade.blogspot.co…

Collage ©TheDenimEye2016. Individual images (clockwise from top) ©topshop.com, ©foxyzingaro.blogspot.co.uk, ©wildandfreejewelry.com, ©studded-hearts.com, ©drielys.com, ©bewithstyle.com, ©lelookbcn.tumblr.com/lelook.eu, ©aviewfromtheshade.blogspot.com, ©asos.com, ©chicagostreetsyle.com, ©drielys.com

Ripping, repairing and fraying combined with contrast fabrics and prints.  Mix, match and play with unusual combinations of denim and other fabrics.  

Trainers or boots are the preferred footwear and fringing is a must for accessories. 

Traditional Festival girlie dresses from MiH and The GREAT!

Fringed suede waistcoat traditionally indian inspired, combined with a gathered bottom indigo shirt.