WILD COLOUR: Plastic Colour

Fake texture.  Shiny metallic coatings.  Surreal effects.

 Roccobarocco

Roccobarocco

Wild colour combines with metallic shine creating daytime party wear.  Childlike attraction for all that glitters in the most funky colours and combos.    Styling is jeanswear with the popular trucker jacket in a base of denim with metallic coating being the favourite.   Combine this with shimmering synthetic skirts and shiny stretch skinny jeans.

Funky streetwear is likewise high shine. Not metallic but wet-look PVC.

 

 Sunnei Menswear, Cheap Monday

Sunnei Menswear, Cheap Monday

Functional outerwear is given a contemporary new twist by Sunnel in high shine plastic coating.   Leave it shiny or degrade the surface to a crackle effect to mock a natural leather texture as in this Cheap Monday coated blocked jacket.

 Chanel Resort 19

Chanel Resort 19

Off tones of primary brights in super head to toe shine makes a brave wild statement.  Not for shrinking violets.

WILD COLOUR: Colour Overworked

Workwear with added haphazard attitude.

 Junya Watanabe Collaboration with Carhartt and Levi's S/S18

Junya Watanabe Collaboration with Carhartt and Levi's S/S18

Trucker and ever popular work style jackets are given a new face with atelier style paint effects.   Junya Watanabe at Comme des garçons demonstrates her super creative style in this collaboration with Levis and Carhartt.     A combination of opposites in the toughness of fabric and rigidity of style with haphazard flamboyance of acrylic and pigment colour having the appearance of happy accident.

 Simon Miller S/S18, MSGM S/S18

Simon Miller S/S18, MSGM S/S18

Jeanswear is fashion wear when overworked with colour and combined with luxe fabrics and print effects.   Why not take a basic garment such as ecru denim and work it into fashion.

 Neuw Jeans painted by Dan Vient, Anna Sui, Adam Selman, Calvin Klein 

Neuw Jeans painted by Dan Vient, Anna Sui, Adam Selman, Calvin Klein 

Printing, painting, coating using blue denim as a canvas - creative grunge.

 Heliot Emil, Ashley Williams

Heliot Emil, Ashley Williams

Paint techniques in pigment or acrylic applied by brush or sponge of knife puts white onto black and black onto white - the ultimate in colour contrast - the denim garment is truly a canvas for self expression.

TREND ALERT - WILD COLOUR

Flamboyant jeanswear. Fluo and clashing. Expression of Self.

WILD COLOUR: Colour Blocking

Less about the fabric more about the colour.  change the colour of obvious details and emphasise the shape with bold shade combos.    

We try to emulate tropical wild flamboyance where natures clashing tones create a cacophony of colour.

Wild colour changes the look of function and the of era of influence..

 Tommy Hilfiger, ASOS

Tommy Hilfiger, ASOS

From fashion patches to sporty stripes.  Underlying it all the jeans styling is always there.  Use of different fabric bits and pieces helps the contrast.

 Sunnei, Mila Schon, Dolls Kill, Sonia Rykiel

Sunnei, Mila Schon, Dolls Kill, Sonia Rykiel

As well as bold blocks snd stripes piecing and patching old blue denims lends quirky character. Take bits of skirts, mix with bits of jeans and jackets creating new shapes and textures. 

 Maison The Faux, VFiles

Maison The Faux, VFiles

Upcycle and recycle, add pattern and decoration to pull together blocks of texture and tone.

First we de-construct, then we re-construct.  No need to make new, just make new from old. This is where colour is creative and fresh. 

 Dussen Dussen

Dussen Dussen

Colour is industrial in its simple geometric boldness and contrast of level and tone.

SLOW DENIM: Faking The Craft

What was once natural wear became created by hand over many hours of scraping, grinding, ripping and repairing in a traditional denim laundry.  Now we have holes, bare patches, wear whiskers and time stains all created with pre-programmed lazer equipment.   This use of modern technology to "fake" the handmade in a cleaner and more efficient is the way of the denim future.

What was once, and shamefully still is, created in a laundry using millions of gallons of waste water is increasingly created by lazer equipment with hardly any loss of precious water at all.

 Story MFG

Story MFG

Whatever pattern you desire can be pre-programmed and created without any water at all.

 // Michal Gorelick // Sonia Rykiel

// Michal Gorelick // Sonia Rykiel

Faking the idea of creative crazy denims has never been more easy.  Using machines and grinders to fluff and bloom the cotton edges to achieve art denim on a scale that is usually achieved by laborious hand processes.   Here denim art meets commercial reality.

Faking-the-craft-3.png

Ozone technology for denim fabric finishing enables the finishing of broad denim with only one bath of cold water thereby saving gallons of water as well as energy and harmful chemicals.   So, in this case "faking" the craft has a serious environmental benefit.

 Levi's Eureka Lab // Yasin Ciçek // Jeanologia

Levi's Eureka Lab // Yasin Ciçek // Jeanologia

Levi is embarking on a new way of commercially mass finishing their jeans at the same time saving trillions of gallons of water in the process.  Not only can vintage worn areas be reproduced but also fancy patterns can be burnt out of the jean.  All without water!!

SLOW DENIM: Re-Creating the Classics

Traditional and vintage originals with a unique twist.   Take a traditional vintage 5 pocket shape and deconstruct it by clipping and picking threads and seams.   Make texture where there was none.

 Faustine Steinmetz (Left and Centre images) ENDRIME

Faustine Steinmetz (Left and Centre images) ENDRIME

Create classic truckers and original jeans out of handmade indigo fabrics.  Not to call them denims as the result is hardly a 3x1 twill any longer.  Open weaves distort what was once a classic jean.

Upcycle your favourite classics of jackets/jeans/skirts and shirts.   Use decoration alongside destruction and reconstruction  Make a feature of overwear, re-use rather than throw away.

 Images from 'Worn Vol.1'

Images from 'Worn Vol.1'

Take time to make new originality from vintage pieces or with vintage inspiration.

We recognise the items but make differences by hand.  Make them yours for ever.  Change their persona over time revolutionising recognisable items, making them worthy of the 21st century.

 Recycled cotton fibres // Levi's X  Evrnu, Faustine Stienmetz Recycled Tag

Recycled cotton fibres // Levi's X  Evrnu, Faustine Stienmetz Recycled Tag

The result could be totally sustainable OR your own total performance.  Use performance touches, finishes and textiles to create a handmade article that performs to your needs.    Create it all by hand, that is the new modern way forwards for our clothing.  

  Blue Patchwork Jeans by Blackmeans

 Blue Patchwork Jeans by Blackmeans

Take time to enjoy the process of practicality, repair, change, recycle, upcycle to more enjoy the results.

SLOW DENIM: Visible Construction

This is where yarns are the most important element of the textile.  Yarns and their tactile,  3D drama are the reason such textiles exist,  the construction is merely a vehicle to showcase fibre usually intimately hidden as part of the whole.

We explore all the elements within the fabric exciting us to the potential of yarn itself?  

 Faustine Steinmetz

Faustine Steinmetz

Transparency created with meandering threads which shift through all the hues of indigo.    How to encase the body with threads alone without the benefit of supporting construction?

 Faustine Steinmetz // Faustine Steinmetz // Balmain // Faustine Steinmetz

Faustine Steinmetz // Faustine Steinmetz // Balmain // Faustine Steinmetz

Loose threads in degrade indigo shades showcase how creative Faustine Steinmetz can be with the yarn itself without the constraints of formalised construction .  Items almost too exciting to wear. Balmain also plays with art and transparency but with regenerated denim rather than the simple yarn.   It is all made by hand creating unique living pieces.

 Faustine Steinmetz

Faustine Steinmetz

Distorted smudged vintage inspiration.  Stripes once simple show case ways of distortion giving them a new vibe.

TREND ALERT - SLOW DENIM - Crafted indigos to keep forever.

Hand crafted denim fabric and jeans are the antithesis of mass manufactured denims and their pollution caused in the cause of our mass consumption.       This SLOW DENIM movement is motivated by the lack of true sustainability in our denim industry which is fuelling the desire for individuality and longevity rather than just ordinary clothing.   This is the opposite of fast fashion -  we will keep SLOW DENIM forever we will not throw it away when worn out, we will just re-work and re-wear hopefully being more creative in the process.

We want itens to love, to keep and to pass on. Not to be thrown away.   We respect the hands that make what we wear.             Make your soul and hands blue.                                                                  

Handmade - Blue Hands

   
  
   
  
    
  
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  Handmade Tag - Faustine Steinmetz

Handmade Tag - Faustine Steinmetz

Hand dyed indigo with plant derived dye achieves the most iconic hue and unique cast to this romantic shade.     Unlike synthetic indigo natural plant dye washes down super fast achieving the most natural worn in effects.   The natural dye disappears over time and many washings and exposure to sunlight eventually creating an off white indigo.

Combining this natural dye with coarsely spun cottons facilitates loose open constructions that breathe with the wearer folding easily around the body. 

 Faustine Steinmetz // Xu Zhi // Faustine Steinmetz // Xu Zhi

Faustine Steinmetz // Xu Zhi // Faustine Steinmetz // Xu Zhi

Fuzzy and fluffy tactile textures to entice.      Hand pleated shapes  create dimension and drama.                                                    Controlled fringing and fraying creates an impression of living clothing.

Think of art clothing, clothing as art.

 Xu Zhi // Chanel // Cristaseya // Faustine Steinmetz

Xu Zhi // Chanel // Cristaseya // Faustine Steinmetz

Shapes are bigger and baggier supporting the hand crafted weaves.    Xu Zhi, a talented graduate from Central St Martins,  combines geometric shapes and hand picked textures for his living fashion.   

 Faustine Steinmetz, 'SLOW DENIM'

Faustine Steinmetz, 'SLOW DENIM'

Key designers in this arena is Faustine Steinmetz and 69 who create indigo wearable art as installations with massive textures and metallic threads.