Warm and protective Layering.

Huge puffy indigo blue jackets transform the romance of the shade into practicality too!

 Balenciaga Fall 18/19

Balenciaga Fall 18/19

Balenciaga layers up the giant puffed up down filled jacket with plaid and stripes of brushed cottons. In spite of the giant down filled quilting the brand still manages to proclaim the fabric’s origins and wash out properties with high low seam wear and worn in body finish.

 House of OD, Diesel, Balenciaga Fall 18/19

House of OD, Diesel, Balenciaga Fall 18/19

Layers and functional fastenings offer myriad opportunities for fleece mixing with denim and non denim cottons. Of course Diesel who excel in work style combines layers of quilting with overalls.

Brushed lofty cottons in lookalike snowdrifts layered up with ribbed knits lend a visual softness to a chunky structure. Such layering adds real warmth to lighter weight denims with a brush finish.

 http://bleumode.tumblr.com

http://bleumode.tumblr.com

EXTRA Warm

Puffer jackets have become the must have item for warmth. Now not only in down filled nylon but also in lightweight proofed down filled denim. Fleece collars enhance the perception and function of warmth with different levels of thermal insulation depending on need.

 Roy Rodgers

Roy Rodgers

Quilted denims in pieced and patched shades of indigo in oversized styles really do keep you cosy and warm. As demonstrated by the Tom Wood x Kelly Harrington collaboration. The pair first showing their teamwork in Oslo now in Paris. Functional pieces to covet.

 Tom Wood X Kelly Harrington (Far right, Far left), Fendi

Tom Wood X Kelly Harrington (Far right, Far left), Fendi

Quilted and padded on the inside in workwear styling from Carharrt and fleece lining from LF Markey for girls protective jacketry.

 Carhartt // Markey by LF Markey

Carhartt // Markey by LF Markey

Outdoors fashion work style from LF Markey uses heavy denims brushed for warmth and lined for extra. Quirky details add a touch of fun to the workwear inspiration.

 LF. Markey

LF. Markey

Fleece lined denim transforms what is a cool fabric into a toasty warm one. Corduroy in jeans styling is a winter warmer in jeanswear.

Made For The Outdoors

Denims to keep us warm; Function against the elements; Ultimate function with comfort; Winter cottons that can also be winter warmers with new finishing techniques. Many new techniques of fabric finishing to render the simple denim garment functional.

 Streetwear; workwear; sportswear; tough wear.

Streetwear; workwear; sportswear; tough wear.

Survivalist denim takes attitude from the style, the brand, the function enhanced by the denim finish - brush backs; thermal fibres; Super strong denims; double layers and double faces.

Miyabe micro acrylic is an insulating warm fibre; Thermalite from Invista is a warm to touch synthetic fibre; wool denims are naturally more warm than cotton denims; Spun viscose and spun modal are warm cellulosic fibres commonly used as blends in denim.

 Carhartt

Carhartt

Carrhart survival clothing demonstrates how cottons can be thermalised for winter wear. Their collection is a combination of padded denims; brushed cottons; brushed non denims and quilting. This is street clothing masquerading as performance wear. In doing so it does however fulfil the function demonstrating the we can still wear our denims in the depths of winter.

Back Country uses tough rugged, raw 15ozs denims from Cone White Oak woven with Dyneema to resist wear, wind and weather. Sprayed with water repellant it guards against wet elements as well. Designs are simple conventional with extra functional detailing.

The denims start raw so no prior finishing to create wear or to pollute the environment - they leave the wearing in to you. The jeans look better for it.

 Black Country Denim

Black Country Denim

Lighter weights denims can also be hard wearing. Mountain Hardwear is offering light stretch denims with Dyneema suitable for athletic outdoor pursuits like Rock climbing.

 Mountain Hardwear

Mountain Hardwear

Patagonia uses “Steel Forge denim” made from a Dyneema blend to make it super strong. Not for mountain climbing more for manual and rugged labour.

 Patagonia

Patagonia

Whilst heavy 3x1 denims are hard wearing in themselves the strength claim today is not as true as it was when Levi first made blue jeans back in the 1800’s. So now we use fibres such as Cordura and Dyneema to ensure the strength needed for functionally tough jeans for real outdoor and work performance.

 Dyneema Denim

Dyneema Denim

Saint Denim makes most of their outdoor pursuit jeans with Dyneema blended with cotton. Motor Cycle tested both on the cycle and off has proved that Dyneema really is currently the strongest and most durable fibre for the tough denim job.

Dyneema is super strong , super lightweight and super resistant to abrasion. It is the strongest fibre in the World being 15 times more abrasion resistant than steel; chemical resistant and slippery too. It is however very expensive therefore, unless we need the denim for a real branded function the jeans will be more than a high street retailer could bear.

ALL ECO - future green denim

Some of the suggestions below are already here and some are still in the sky!

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DRY DENIM is here and is lovely but you the consumer have not yet embraced it fully. Buy the jeans unwashed and wear them in personally to your own shape and your own wear marks - wallet marks; knee indents; naturally roe or splashed areas. The drawback of this is that the jeans will shrink slightly once washed by you. The answer is don’t!! just turn inside out at night and hang in the fresh air or put in the freezer overnight.

DRY DENIM can also refer to a dark jean that has been dry tumbled. Put into the machine without water and with rubber balls. These remove the finishing starch making the jeans more comfy at the outset.

The secret with all the dry denims is that you are embracing water conservation therefore, you must not wash them yourself. They look better with a few scraps and spills- stories to tell.

 Vans with Silvadur Coating

Vans with Silvadur Coating

SILVADUR uses antibacterial silver ions in the fibre that we weave into the denim to make the jean stay fresher for longer. Silver has natural anti-microbial properties and having it woven into the fabric makes those properties permanent. Having denim with Sivadur enables you to buy your DRY DENIM and wear without washing time and time again with confidence.

FUR DENIM - sounds exciting!

Fur is outlawed in many countries yet we love the concept. So instead of the super SHRIMPS fake fun fur why not embrace indigo fur?

Ksenia Schnaider in the Ukraine cares about the environment as well as keeping warm and loving jeans. Ksenia worked with ISKO development team to create the first “fur denim”. Of course coming from Isko the product is woven but if you cast your mind back to childhood and there are many ways to experiment and play with knitting, crochet, threading and weaving strips plus fluffing and cropping fibres to create ragged effects. Rather like rag rugs for the body.

TIZIANO GUARDINI’S denim “fur” features laters of shred denim that mimics the volume and movement of fur. Again the fabrics were developed in conjunction with Isko creative room at Isko’s Italian hub. Of course such denim fur is totally sustainable as it is all recycled denims - ethical and fun.

ALL ECO: Water conservation

Reducing our dependence on water in the manufacture of Denim has been the mission of JEANOLOGIA, Spain since day one.

jeanologica.png

Jeanologia, Spain are the pioneer makers of denim and jeans processing equipment which use significantly less water to process both denim and jeans. With vision, perseverance and passion Enrique Silla the founder owner is transforming our thirsty and dirty denim and jeans industry.

 Jeanologica's Lazer Garmenting

Jeanologica's Lazer Garmenting

the G2 Dynamic ozone fabric processing equipment uses only one cold bath of water to finish the fabric compared to many gallons in a normal process. It uses no chemicals thus eliminating the need for caustic treatment. The consumption of water per metre of fabric is insignificant. There is no harmful discharge and no thermal energy is required. It also has added performance benefits for the denim itself.

Using denim finished by this method in a jean which is further finished with the Jenologia Lazer garmenting equipment we can achieve the most sustainable jean in the World today.

 Jeanologia G2 Dynamic denim finishing

Jeanologia G2 Dynamic denim finishing

The above illustration demonstrates the saving of water, energy and chemicals achieved by using jeanologia’s equipment. One denim manufacturer has branded their product “THIRST FREE” Denim!

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Water, our most precious element instead of being used in the growing of cotton could be harnessed to alleviate drought and starvation of millions. Above are the shocking statistics of just how much irrigation water is needed in cotton growing.

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Denim and jeans manufacture uses approximately 8000 litres of water to make just one pair of jeans!! Shocking but true. Including thirsty cotton growing, indigo blue dyeing, denim finishing, jeans laundry washing many times per jean it is easy now to see how this quantity can be achieved.

The water from denim dyeing is blue and indigo has no affinity with cotton so the denim has to be washed many times to eliminate the excess surface indigo, resulting in blue water which must be cleaned and free from chemicals before returning to nature.

 It is obvious what happens to the earth without water.

It is obvious what happens to the earth without water.

We all know what happens to the earth without water. It is desert.

The ground becomes parched and cracked. The surface becomes impossible to cultivate being starved of nutrients. We all must reduce our water use not just the denim and jeans makers. We must learn to use less. Later this month i share ways of finishing jeans that will use little or no water in the manufacture and how us as consumers can use little or no water in the care of our jeans.

ALL ECO - Recycled Denim

REDONE is a truly “green” jeans company. Born on line. Using Pre-owned Levi jeans. what’s not to like?

 RE/DONE

RE/DONE

REDONE mostly tries to use old Levi pre-owned jeans. Cutting them, re-stying, re-finishing to achieve a more contemporary shape or fit whist retaining the original denim which has the benefit of years of previous much loved wear.

So no contaminating cotton crop or excessive use of water plus the jeans feel soft and worn in.

Where the jeans are newly made they are made using denim from sustainable denim manufacture and finished with water conserving processes. They are made in downtown LA where transport is readily available so no expensive and polluting transportation.

REDONE also customises old Levis to your personal specification. Now there’s something to lust after.

Pile-of-denim.png

Recycling jeans - the growth of thrift stores. A vintage jean is a lustworthy thing! It has character, history, aged aesthetic and soft hand. If it fits real well then it is a true find. Real old good quality vintage jeans are getting harder to find. This however is just one benefit of the specialist denim thrift store. The main benefit is finding jeans that fit both size and aesthetic plus have caused no harm to the environment.

In addition the thrift / flea market is an exciting and personal way to shop but it takes a lot of energy and resolve! The rewards are to find the perfect fitting worn in original jean.

 SILK DENIM http://silkdenim.us

SILK DENIM http://silkdenim.us

SILK DENIM is another brand which uses recycled denim Requiring the process to be unique for every garment made. Personal customising is also an option with the Silk Mother and daughter partnership.

If you are bored with your existing jeans or have grown out of them then go to MY SilkDenim page and find your salvation.

green-is-the-new-blue.png

Very soon every yard of denim will be perfectly green and sustainable!

Such utopia will be a while coming but we are getting there. Isko is nearly there.

I talked about the “non cotton” jean which of course is as green as it gets right now. Once the remaining harmful chemicals used in dyeing and finishing have been totally eliminated then we will wear our jeans with a clear conscience. That time is not far away. I work closely with manufacturers of both denim and jeans can report that they are all working hard to be as responsible and sustainable as technology will currently allow.

Good News indeed!