TEXTURE - Textured Yarns

Textural dimension is created with the use of textured yarns as well as creative weaves.

Denim creators continue to strive for that elusive naturally aged appeal of original aged denims. Those found in the mines of California. The effects of using such “fancy” textured yarns create a “must have” appeal when used in an open 3x1 construction.

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Melange and marled yarns being black and white or dark colour and white serve to break up any patterns. The combination of indigo and melange yarns create a visual trick of multi dimension to the denim.

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Nepps, loops, noiled yarns create a surface texture reminiscent of old tweeds. When worked into coarse denim which enjoys the natural quick loss of indigo colour- the effect is dramatic. The look is of really old miners denims having an aged charm.

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Softness is THE most desired aesthetic and touch for denim right now. So the surface appeal of fluffy yarns and soft fluffed texture give the impression of softness as well as the touch.

TREND ALERT - TEXTURE -Vintage Texture

From clean neat form fitting denim womens jeans have shifted to embrace the easy fitting shape and characterful texture enjoyed by mens jeans for so long.

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Crackle textural finish effects achieved by shrink to fit or pre-shrunk denims combine effectively with 3D creasing and age worn creasing. Sometimes with a little or a lot of worn through edges which create a texture all of their own. Some areas are worn bare contrasting with dark valleys achieved by stitching up during the wash or spray cycle.

Such textures create a sought after dimension and stand alone appeal.

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Marbled texture is reminiscent of old vintage jeans. Such texture continues to enjoy huge appeal giving the jeans authenticity. Both marbled effects and crackle effects are enhanced with brown tint and staining to replicate the old worn out miners jeans from the late 1800’s. Once all such textural effects are superimposed onto the jeans the original shade and yarn character is all but obliterated making the jean itself a canvas for creative ageing.

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Yarns are the fundamental building blocks for denim and jeans, It is the character, softness, strength of the cotton or other fibres which determine the nature of the denim and thereafter the jean. The choice of the denim is key to achieving the right look of the ultimate jean. It is the yarn character combined with weave construction that creates the textural foundation to achieve the desired attitude of the jean.

Then there is texture from destruction

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Once we have made the denim, washed the denim and made the jean, yet more creative texture can be achieved with superficial destruction of the fabric - why? initially to emulate natural heavy wear, tear and ageing to the fabric. But now to create artificial and artistic destructions which have a stand alone appeal. Such creative ripping, repairing and shredding only really works with blue denim. Somehow it looks ok however over the top and artificial it may be. On other fabrics/colours the effects look too contrived.

Survivalist Features

Brushing; quilting; layering; warm fibres alone are not enough to proclaim Survivalist. Accessories and details are essential to the attitude of outdoor denims. In fact detail and sundries can alone proclaim survival.

 House of OD

House of OD

Functional strapping combined with fabric layering makes jeans for cycling and boarding fulfil their recreational function. House of OD excels at recreational function. Sizes and shapes being large with accessories and detailing cinching and pulling for function.

 Tom Wood X Kelly Harrington

Tom Wood X Kelly Harrington

Tom Wood and Kelly Harrington work with giant zippers and carabiner clips in their function denims for a more aggressive attitude. Completed with heavy wear sporting high low seam finishing to the heavy weight denims.

 San Shing

San Shing

San Shing cleverly combines coated denims which look tough after wash with Carabiner clips and multi zippers used en masse in the garment for fashion effect as well as function.

 Acne Studios

Acne Studios

Massive pocketing proclaims FUNCTION as well as warmth due to extra layers of denim. Simple giant detailing and gathering at waist and pocket renders a simple garment fashion combined with function.

Warm and protective Layering.

Huge puffy indigo blue jackets transform the romance of the shade into practicality too!

 Balenciaga Fall 18/19

Balenciaga Fall 18/19

Balenciaga layers up the giant puffed up down filled jacket with plaid and stripes of brushed cottons. In spite of the giant down filled quilting the brand still manages to proclaim the fabric’s origins and wash out properties with high low seam wear and worn in body finish.

 House of OD, Diesel, Balenciaga Fall 18/19

House of OD, Diesel, Balenciaga Fall 18/19

Layers and functional fastenings offer myriad opportunities for fleece mixing with denim and non denim cottons. Of course Diesel who excel in work style combines layers of quilting with overalls.

Brushed lofty cottons in lookalike snowdrifts layered up with ribbed knits lend a visual softness to a chunky structure. Such layering adds real warmth to lighter weight denims with a brush finish.

 http://bleumode.tumblr.com

http://bleumode.tumblr.com

EXTRA Warm

Puffer jackets have become the must have item for warmth. Now not only in down filled nylon but also in lightweight proofed down filled denim. Fleece collars enhance the perception and function of warmth with different levels of thermal insulation depending on need.

 Roy Rodgers

Roy Rodgers

Quilted denims in pieced and patched shades of indigo in oversized styles really do keep you cosy and warm. As demonstrated by the Tom Wood x Kelly Harrington collaboration. The pair first showing their teamwork in Oslo now in Paris. Functional pieces to covet.

 Tom Wood X Kelly Harrington (Far right, Far left), Fendi

Tom Wood X Kelly Harrington (Far right, Far left), Fendi

Quilted and padded on the inside in workwear styling from Carharrt and fleece lining from LF Markey for girls protective jacketry.

 Carhartt // Markey by LF Markey

Carhartt // Markey by LF Markey

Outdoors fashion work style from LF Markey uses heavy denims brushed for warmth and lined for extra. Quirky details add a touch of fun to the workwear inspiration.

 LF. Markey

LF. Markey

Fleece lined denim transforms what is a cool fabric into a toasty warm one. Corduroy in jeans styling is a winter warmer in jeanswear.

Made For The Outdoors

Denims to keep us warm; Function against the elements; Ultimate function with comfort; Winter cottons that can also be winter warmers with new finishing techniques. Many new techniques of fabric finishing to render the simple denim garment functional.

 Streetwear; workwear; sportswear; tough wear.

Streetwear; workwear; sportswear; tough wear.

Survivalist denim takes attitude from the style, the brand, the function enhanced by the denim finish - brush backs; thermal fibres; Super strong denims; double layers and double faces.

Miyabe micro acrylic is an insulating warm fibre; Thermalite from Invista is a warm to touch synthetic fibre; wool denims are naturally more warm than cotton denims; Spun viscose and spun modal are warm cellulosic fibres commonly used as blends in denim.

 Carhartt

Carhartt

Carrhart survival clothing demonstrates how cottons can be thermalised for winter wear. Their collection is a combination of padded denims; brushed cottons; brushed non denims and quilting. This is street clothing masquerading as performance wear. In doing so it does however fulfil the function demonstrating the we can still wear our denims in the depths of winter.

Back Country uses tough rugged, raw 15ozs denims from Cone White Oak woven with Dyneema to resist wear, wind and weather. Sprayed with water repellant it guards against wet elements as well. Designs are simple conventional with extra functional detailing.

The denims start raw so no prior finishing to create wear or to pollute the environment - they leave the wearing in to you. The jeans look better for it.

 Black Country Denim

Black Country Denim

Lighter weights denims can also be hard wearing. Mountain Hardwear is offering light stretch denims with Dyneema suitable for athletic outdoor pursuits like Rock climbing.

 Mountain Hardwear

Mountain Hardwear

Patagonia uses “Steel Forge denim” made from a Dyneema blend to make it super strong. Not for mountain climbing more for manual and rugged labour.

 Patagonia

Patagonia

Whilst heavy 3x1 denims are hard wearing in themselves the strength claim today is not as true as it was when Levi first made blue jeans back in the 1800’s. So now we use fibres such as Cordura and Dyneema to ensure the strength needed for functionally tough jeans for real outdoor and work performance.

 Dyneema Denim

Dyneema Denim

Saint Denim makes most of their outdoor pursuit jeans with Dyneema blended with cotton. Motor Cycle tested both on the cycle and off has proved that Dyneema really is currently the strongest and most durable fibre for the tough denim job.

Dyneema is super strong , super lightweight and super resistant to abrasion. It is the strongest fibre in the World being 15 times more abrasion resistant than steel; chemical resistant and slippery too. It is however very expensive therefore, unless we need the denim for a real branded function the jeans will be more than a high street retailer could bear.

ALL ECO - future green denim

Some of the suggestions below are already here and some are still in the sky!

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DRY DENIM is here and is lovely but you the consumer have not yet embraced it fully. Buy the jeans unwashed and wear them in personally to your own shape and your own wear marks - wallet marks; knee indents; naturally roe or splashed areas. The drawback of this is that the jeans will shrink slightly once washed by you. The answer is don’t!! just turn inside out at night and hang in the fresh air or put in the freezer overnight.

DRY DENIM can also refer to a dark jean that has been dry tumbled. Put into the machine without water and with rubber balls. These remove the finishing starch making the jeans more comfy at the outset.

The secret with all the dry denims is that you are embracing water conservation therefore, you must not wash them yourself. They look better with a few scraps and spills- stories to tell.

 Vans with Silvadur Coating

Vans with Silvadur Coating

SILVADUR uses antibacterial silver ions in the fibre that we weave into the denim to make the jean stay fresher for longer. Silver has natural anti-microbial properties and having it woven into the fabric makes those properties permanent. Having denim with Sivadur enables you to buy your DRY DENIM and wear without washing time and time again with confidence.

FUR DENIM - sounds exciting!

Fur is outlawed in many countries yet we love the concept. So instead of the super SHRIMPS fake fun fur why not embrace indigo fur?

Ksenia Schnaider in the Ukraine cares about the environment as well as keeping warm and loving jeans. Ksenia worked with ISKO development team to create the first “fur denim”. Of course coming from Isko the product is woven but if you cast your mind back to childhood and there are many ways to experiment and play with knitting, crochet, threading and weaving strips plus fluffing and cropping fibres to create ragged effects. Rather like rag rugs for the body.

TIZIANO GUARDINI’S denim “fur” features laters of shred denim that mimics the volume and movement of fur. Again the fabrics were developed in conjunction with Isko creative room at Isko’s Italian hub. Of course such denim fur is totally sustainable as it is all recycled denims - ethical and fun.