Shapeless Ambiguity

January 27, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Shapeless tops in denim work as well for guys as for girls - they present a fashion opportunity away from the traditional jeans family. High rise baggy fits for girls are a welcome relief from the super shaping, breath restricting skinny cuts. Denim fabric development away from the traditional 3x1 twill into matellasse and double faced fabrics enables us to create differentiated shapes pitching denim into other end uses.

L-R: ©Lucio Vanotti, ©Worn 2, ©Pringle of Scotland

Is it a dress? Is it a shirt? Is it a jacket? We are in exciting times in the World of denim. Due to new technology in the make and finish of the fabric plus adding new fibres and playing with differentiated weights and constructions we are now able to create any style and shape all of which can now be washed without the risk of shrinking! Life in denim is wonderful! Denim has no boundaries.

Military

January 26, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Uniforms are truly genderless. Once made from cotton drill and heavy functional flannel they are now made in lighter weights, khaki cotton twills and denims. It is mainly the styling details and the insignia that lend military attitude. Badges for fun that lend a message.

It is the style details which dominate creating military overtones to the garment - giant patch pockets; buttoned pocket flaps; drawstring pull on jackets; the flying suit - and of course the military leather jacket as the essential accessory.

The contrast between two simple military garments couldn't be more marked. One is simple, structured and tailored with strict red piping and military buttons the other is unadorned indigo denim simple sailors jacket from Nimes. Yet they are both indigo denim demonstrating two sides of the same style question.

Denim Brands and Muses Breaking Gender Divisions

January 23, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Men in Skirts

January 19, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Denim skirts are not just for girls alone. for guys they can be edgy accessories to a classic jeans and jacket combo. Backside out denim in split front style; frayed edges in multi panels work with frayed edges of an oversized jacket; a swooping long layered skirt in deepest indigo. The skirt is a style statement in denim- off beat for guys and main stream for girls always a bolder statement in non basic denim in non basic shades.

L: ©Angelos Frentzos C: ©Miharayasuhiro R:©Marcelo Burlon County of Milan

The skirt here demonstrates how genderless denim is becoming. More interesting when paired with heavily masculine other denim items. Guys denim skirts offer an opportunity to add a bit of fun and fashion to a classic denim jeans and jacket team. Then there is the "kilt" - a man's garment from the outset now looking fresh and interesting in denim for guys.

L-R: ©Dsquared2, © ©Dsquared2, ©Dsquared2

Work Ethic

January 16, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Work style denims are truly without gender since being worn by factory workers in the USA in the early 1900's. None more so than the ubiquitous boiler suit. Once crafted in heavy weight durable 3x1 twill indigo denim and brown duck cloth it is now made from lighter weight denims with added style details as a fashion garment for both genders. Likewise the ticking workers jacket originally from the Osh Kosh USA brand is now a must for a denim fashion statement in all kinds of denim.

Work style indigo originated in Japan and China with simple or little detail except for function. Once in padded indigo quilted cotton now in light weight indigo styled like the simple Japanese pyjama. They are truly genderless and more attractive for being so.

L: ©Indigo the colour that changed the world R: ©I AND ME

Workers aprons; workers bags and simple Asian work jackets have become part of our genderless denim fashion arena. Anything and everything can be and now is made from indigo denim taking inspiration from the past - in this case the old work ethic.

Top Right: ©Worn 2 Bottom Right: ©Indigo the colour that changed the world

Vintage

January 12, 2017 Jill Lawrence

In the popular days of 50's denim, the denim was unisex. James Dean and Marilyn Monroe would be wearing exactly the same jeans. They would just wear them differently. Style them differently. Denim in it's original nature is genderless. It is a unique fabric lending itself to any wearer regardless of gender perceptions.

L: ©Denim From Cowboys to Catwalks Centre: ©Jeans Des Heros Right: ©Denim From Cowboys to Catwalks

The Tailored class - tailoring leads to gender neutrality

January 9, 2017 Jill Lawrence

The Dark overdyed indigo denim in this trucker jacket with bold overstitched style details easily morphs into the classic blazer for genderless tailored denims. Likewise the loose cut lightweight denim for easy shaped tops works for both genders.

Oversized shapeless jackets, baggy cut pants bereft of any embellishment are true "denims without gender or class". Likewise the overstyled slick city trucker.

Simple and clean with emphasis on shape and detail make these jackets seem almost architectural in their genderless statement.

Baggy Boyfriend on Girls, Skinny Girlfriend on Guys

January 5, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Baggy, oversized, worn in and worn out finishing - demonstrating the current trend for girls fashion denim. Shapeless with a comfort attitude with added style details of huge cuffs, rolled cuffs, dropped bibs, ankle visibility and ripped knees.

Skinny guys with urban attitude. Note the saturated mono colour - no weft grin denim here. And note the essential accessories of work boots or loafers with ankle visibility always with rolled cuffs, totally genderless attire.