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Denim Digest: cool hunter, raw denim - my picks from the shops

October 13, 2016 Jill Lawrence

In this feature, each month we will showcase some of the best bits we have found in the shops over the last couple of weeks. Today we are looking at raw blue denim and have picked out three of our favourite items in the shops now; a Levi's Made and Crafted overshirt, a pair of mens Nudie Thin Finns and a women's Mih oversized 2x1 crisp vintage shirt.

First up is a shirt from Made and Crafted , the premium brand from the Levi family. A collection skilfully constructed from the finest materials.  Paying the highest attention to every detail from fabric selection and weaving to the buttons and other sundries, they aim to create tomorrow's classics using today's best materials and techniques. This shirt comes from a collection inspired by the California desert with influences of contrasting light, and textures.  Indigo-dipped threads combine with black in the weft compactly woven create an uneven raw texture and a finely patterned aesthetic harking back to the soft sanded textures of the Californian desert.  The shirt has been made to feel contemporary with a tailored finish and discrete pockets, while the straight shape and details adhere to the traditional look of a workwear overshirt. They have achieved a lightweight feel with the Japanese chambray while still maintaing a classic raw denim look - perfect for the Cool Hunter trend.  

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Next up we have Thin Finn Dry Twill jeans from Nudie Jeans. Nudie are top of their game when it comes to ethical denim that never compromises on style and these jeans are no exception. Carefully sourced from organic cotton with a stylish and contemporary raw dry finish.  We wholeheartedly agree with the brs recommendation to not wash these jeans for 6 months or more. This will allow them to develop an individual, worn in look, fading and creasing uniquely to every wearer. See our previous post on the best ways to maintain and wear down your raw rigid jeans. The signature orange stitching makes for a beautiful contrast against the raw dry denim, with the 3x1  twill prominently showing. As these are unwashed they are likely to shrink more than usual when washed so be mindful of this. The slim fit and tapered narrow leg is flattering and harks back to the 1950s carrot shaped silhouettes albeit a slimmed down version. Overall these are a great pair of jeans for every wardrobe. 

Mih

Mih

Finally we have a long, slim-fitted shirt, made in 8oz 2x1 vintage Japanese indigo with a crisp dark wash from Mih Jeans. Exposed placket and bone buttons, sit alongside contrasting tobacco and biscuit stitching to give an authentic aesthetic. The shirt is designed to look almost washed retaining a deep rich aesthetic.  Why should raw denim always be colourlessly dark? 

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About the Editor

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Denim designer and developer Jill Lawrence founded The Denim Eye to share her knowledge and passion for the blue stuff with a wider audience of like-minded denim lovers. 

Jill is still an active denim designer, crossing continents with her denim visions and working with some of the world's best-known brands and makers. 

The Denim Eye brings an in-depth look at trends and techniques in denim and jeanswear as seen by a creative insider.

Each month there will be a real time trend with twice weekly update posts and insights, where we will share insider knowledge of interest. 

You will be able to buy vintage and archive pieces in our Finds shop, where everything is one of a kind evergreen vintage and occasionally we will offer bespoke new pieces.

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Jill

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