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TREND ALERT - UPSCALE

December 4, 2017 Jill Lawrence
UPSCALE 1.jpg

By contrast to the market saturation of denims which all look the same we are seeing indigo denims which explode out of their constructions.  Size really does matter.  It is all about big scale, dramatic 3D weaves and haphazard denims that grab a finish when subjected to the rigours of the laundry.   Above we have a construction where the technique of "differential shrinkage" of the weft yarns have puckered the surface to create a haphazard ruched seerucker effect........ not intended for jeans but dramatic for tops.

Huge prominent twills that look like corduroy which pop out of the base construction allow us to see the weft valleys between the twill mountains and which react dramatically to the laundry treatments.  Inevitably such big twills come in heavier weight denims most suited to bigger shaped jeans and jackets.   Quilting is not a fabric we automatically associate with indigo denim but its use as indigo kimonos in japan is historically well known and lives perfectly alongside the big twill.    Both giant quilts and mini quilts, which emulate a 3D dobby construction, look fantastic in indigo allowing designers to be super creative with tops that accompany jeans.  The resurgence of the kimono jacket has helped this trend for giant constructions to flourish.

 

L: OFF WHITE

L: OFF WHITE

Giant patterns both printed onto and stitched into the garment lend themselves to wide cuts and boxy shapes.   Far from distorting a frame, however petite, the drama of both pattern scale and garment shape appears boldly new and eye catching.

L: Martin Grant

L: Martin Grant

Massive shapes and big scale details shift from rave pants to flamboyant couture cuts.   Waists and midriffs become important to emphasise as a contrast to the oversize.  Some years ago the big cuff was first introduced by MiH jeans and has subsequently flooded even the mass market being logical when combined with wide bottom raw rigid jeans.    Such giant shapes and clever cutting calls for greater use of raw rigid or raw stretch denim.  Unwashed starched denim helps the sculptural form retain shape longer and of course wear naturally into your own bodily shape.   In fact for such enormous shapes in indigo denim there is almost never a need to wash the big jean!

In Trends Tags Upscale, Twills, Quilting, Giant Cuffs
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Silent Performance - Outdoor Indigo | Climate Control

September 18, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Breathable coatings onto indigo denims allow us to wear our jeanswear pieces in all climates.  We love our jeans, we want to wear them in all conditions.      They can be lightweight, water repellant, breathable, comfort stretch. Not just for jean but for jackets and outdoor styles.

Denim and jeans can now be warm and insulating rather than the previously chilly cottons.    Thermalite from Invista helps us create warmer denims.  Brushed backside denim fabrics allow the simple cotton jean to become a winter cotton item.   Quilted constructions trap air between the double layers.  "Knit" like denim constructions can easily replace as well as replicate the classic fleece hoody and sweat pants in beautiful indigo denim with flexibility and comfort.

Face brushing can be better done in garment form to achieve a warm appearance as well as an insulating fabric.  In face brushing the garment the indigo surface level can be controlled to become like moleskin or velour.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Double layering in the garment as well as quilting in the fabric enables us to use thermal fillings inside and water repellant coatings on the outside yet it is still a denim jacket!

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Natural plus synthetic fibre blend innovations have achieved the strongest fibre - Dyneema.  Cotton + Dyneema blends are used for high performance jeanswear where high rub and tear strength is required - motorbiking; street cycling; boarding; blading; mountaineering to name but a few extreme activities where performance denims are an advantage.   Cordura from Invista and Nylon 66 are also super strong fibres which when blended with cotton create synthetic strength with natural fibre softness.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Shine and performance can be achieved with fibre rather than coated finish namely, hi shine nylons, tencel  and trilobal polyesters. Whilst denims are traditionally made with cotton warps we can now make a denim which is totally synthetic yet retaining ability to dye indigo - namely, Tencel or Modal ( Lenzing) cellulosic warps with other synthetic fibre blends in the weft. 

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

We have mentioned temperature controlling fibres  in the form of thermalite from Invista.   Invista also help us create cooling denims with moisture management with their Coolmax for summer denims and Coolmax all season being a  blend of thermalite and coolmax for all year round comfort denims.

Nilit also offers Breeze which is a cool fibre;  Heat which is a thermal fibre; Aquarius which is a breathable moisture management fibre.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Brushing; Quilting; Coating; Padding are all achievable in the classic character and shade of indigo denim.  We now need never to be without our denims whatever the weather.

 

In Trends Tags Silent Performers, Outdoor Indigo, Technical Denim, Climate Control, Dyneema, Cordura, Brushing, Quilting, Coating
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About the Editor

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Denim designer and developer Jill Lawrence founded The Denim Eye to share her knowledge and passion for the blue stuff with a wider audience of like-minded denim lovers. 

Jill is still an active denim designer, crossing continents with her denim visions and working with some of the world's best-known brands and makers. 

The Denim Eye brings an in-depth look at trends and techniques in denim and jeanswear as seen by a creative insider.

Each month there will be a real time trend with twice weekly update posts and insights, where we will share insider knowledge of interest. 

You will be able to buy vintage and archive pieces in our Finds shop, where everything is one of a kind evergreen vintage and occasionally we will offer bespoke new pieces.

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Jill

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