UPSCALE - Giant Weaves

Hand crafted massive 3D indigo bamboo "plaid".    Reimagined as a giant print or indeed as an indigo textile weave.   Don't you just covet it however it is translated?

Just as we thought the twill couldn't get any bigger - we now see the really giant twill.  The fabric weight is around 32ozs in cotton and yet because of the loose and open construction the jean is surprisingly comfortable.   Giant twills are more commonplace in wools for outerwear but here again their use in jeanswear has become more widely available.   Not as comfortable as cotton  for such coarse wool is scratchy against the legs.  Best kept to coats and jackets we feel.

R: Via Design

Sculptural shapes from VIA Design formed from 3D corded cottons have a life of their own as the body moves within.  Mixing cross and straight cutting creates a moving sculpture loosely called a garment.  Dramatic and exciting it has the "must have" quality associated with great design and even more so in indigo.

Really clever cutting and fabric manipulation creates art in the form of garments.  Cutting and patching stitched fabric bits of big cords creating tension and dynamism from a  sculptural top to a pleated and gathered bottom.    All one can say is it's "indigo WOW".

TREND ALERT - UPSCALE

By contrast to the market saturation of denims which all look the same we are seeing indigo denims which explode out of their constructions.  Size really does matter.  It is all about big scale, dramatic 3D weaves and haphazard denims that grab a finish when subjected to the rigours of the laundry.   Above we have a construction where the technique of "differential shrinkage" of the weft yarns have puckered the surface to create a haphazard ruched seerucker effect........ not intended for jeans but dramatic for tops.

Huge prominent twills that look like corduroy which pop out of the base construction allow us to see the weft valleys between the twill mountains and which react dramatically to the laundry treatments.  Inevitably such big twills come in heavier weight denims most suited to bigger shaped jeans and jackets.   Quilting is not a fabric we automatically associate with indigo denim but its use as indigo kimonos in japan is historically well known and lives perfectly alongside the big twill.    Both giant quilts and mini quilts, which emulate a 3D dobby construction, look fantastic in indigo allowing designers to be super creative with tops that accompany jeans.  The resurgence of the kimono jacket has helped this trend for giant constructions to flourish.

L: OFF WHITE

Giant patterns both printed onto and stitched into the garment lend themselves to wide cuts and boxy shapes.   Far from distorting a frame, however petite, the drama of both pattern scale and garment shape appears boldly new and eye catching.

L: Martin Grant

Massive shapes and big scale details shift from rave pants to flamboyant couture cuts.   Waists and midriffs become important to emphasise as a contrast to the oversize.  Some years ago the big cuff was first introduced by MiH jeans and has subsequently flooded even the mass market being logical when combined with wide bottom raw rigid jeans.    Such giant shapes and clever cutting calls for greater use of raw rigid or raw stretch denim.  Unwashed starched denim helps the sculptural form retain shape longer and of course wear naturally into your own bodily shape.   In fact for such enormous shapes in indigo denim there is almost never a need to wash the big jean!

The Denim Body - Flatter and Wide

Flattering denim cuts as well as serious indigo tailoring offers consumers more jeans opportunities to play with.  Wider shapes, nipped in waists, panelling, top stitching are but some of the denim detailing we now see as part of the fashion jeans scene.  Making the simple skinny almost redundant in the wardrobes of the fashion forward.

Wide shapes and fluid drape from super high waists down to floor skimming lengths are a complete antithesis of the minimal skinny.  The high fashion versions are almost charicature but will influence our eyes to want a wider easier silhouette.

The bigger silhouette is broken up with panelling and top stitching onto raw rigid denims.  Weights are lighter to achieve raw comfort with the addition of Tencel cellulosic fibre for a glamorous lustre.

The Denim Body - Body [ faintly ] Aware

Draped denims that skim the body,  fluid not fitted will emphasise the beauty of your shape - enticing and less obvious. Retaining the lycra content for comfort and ease in fluid denims with tencel or lightweight 2 plied cotton, such denims are having a surge in popularity for the leg lengthening onesie and the high waisted wide long flare. Minimal laundry technique is required to enhance such silhouettes.

R: Collezeioni

The androgynous easy slim which falls over the shoe and the slightly baggier deep cuffed boyfriend styles  look appealing after having spent so long with tight indigo legs.  The denim has still a little stretch to fit at the body and help with movement in high waist styles.

R: V Project

Slim and cropped in positive rich indigos or black denims shift the more simple styled jeans into the suiting arena. High waists, side pockets high low washes at seams and edges lend attitude to a simple silhouette.

The two leading women's brands are playing with alternatives to the super skinny.  

MiH with their iconic cult jean project jeans focuses on superb fit at the rear, slightly higher waists for a smooth silhouette and flattering straight or flared legs into raw cut edges.

J Brand is playing with cigarette and straight slim silhouettes with likewise higher waists giving a flatteringly longer line for both women's and men's jeans.

The Denim Body - Indigo Shape

New focus is on the body and thighs rather than the whole leg.   High cut waists are shapely with interesting versions of the 5 pocket principle. We also see a return to the stitched -in front seam emphasising the leg length and allowing us to use it as a feature in laundry work.   The hourglass silhouette culminates in whatever shape of jean below the knee- flare; boot cut; slim; boyfriend ; crop or deeply cuffed - and don't forget the raw edge finishing.

L: Kelly Harrington R: Stella McCartney

High waists allow us to play with top stitching, visible buttons and shorter crop jackets.  Raw look denims in rich bright indigos may look rigid but with the addition of lycra for a little stretch the term "raw denim" is not so much raw as supremely chic.

Women's denim is becoming more tailored and unwashed in high waisted slim shapes. Cool guys favour raw rigid in slim shapes and crop ankle grazer lengths whilst the geezers still like the aggressive laundry work whatever the shape.

The MiH Jeans ~Golborn Road project by Bay Garnett heralds a resurgence of waist and body emphasis dropping to cropped flares with cuffs big and washed or simply frayed.   Girly yet elegant depending on the accessories bringing back the 70's laid back sexy looks.

Trend Alert: The Denim Body, beyond Skinny

Body aware is what we need now but just how much "aware" do our jeans need to be?      Super tight is starting to look tired. Since skinnies are now worn under everything from crop tops to long dresses maybe skinny jeans should morph back into real leggins?    Mixing Active life items with daily fashion.

R: AGOLDE

Leg Skimmers step back to the real jean.  The denim can display vintage fabric and washes with the added fit of lycra stretch.  Rather than strangulation stretch we see comfort stretch making a return and with it exciting laundry techniques.

The boyfriend fit can be just as flattering as a skinny and much less obvious. Not a man's fit but an easy fit with a mid rise which nods to the woman rather than the girl.  We will play with small kick flares, cigarette shape, cropped slim - all of which are body aware given the stretch and soft comfort technology plus more grown up in attitude.

R: J Crew

Even though the fits are shifting from super skinny to flattering body aware slim we still need fabrics that perform and help the fit.   Maybe not in such high % stretch.  Maybe we no longer need 60-80% stretch maybe we only need 40%?

Lycra and Dual FX fibre blends with added Modal and Tencel for softness and lustrous drape will impart a super comfort body hug allowing the shape to fall from the body or thighs.     Crop flares, boot cut revival and of course the boyfriend are just three of the important looks to come as alternatives to our skinny love.

A Whiter Shade of Pale

White denim is hot hot hot for summer.   It need not be just white.  Take blue out of white with edge spray, or white out of blue with 3D edge effects.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Sculpted clean cuts give white denim a different attitude.  Not always relaxed, ripped, repaired and degraded - rigid white denims can be crisp and clean for summer in the city chic.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye

Ripping, repairing and playing with white coatings lend dimension and interest to an otherwise bland white twill surface.  Use the white jean as a canvas for self expression.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye L-R: ©PRPS ©XIMONLEE ©Zara

Pigment white spray onto indigo - highlight the edges and question the body- is it blue?  is it grey?  is it white?  Whatever it is it adds attitude and intrigue.  

Pale Attitude

Greenish indigo - an amazing colour for summer lending real attitude to all things fashion.

jacket ©Cheap monday, Skirt ©Topshop

Pale indigos and metallic coateds.  Silver + pale blue = fresh, urban, optimistic.

L: R: ©Moshino

Lazer print impressions of degrade are intriguing.   Pieced and patched indigo denims using the backside instead of bleach out.  Anything goes.

Clockwise from Top Left: ©Saint Laurent, ©Off White, ©Kenzo Denim, ©Zara

Mix different washes and different textures in one garment, highlighting areas for shape and effect.  Piece and patch for unique patchwork effects.

Mih

See how fine weave and chambray work in perfect harmony by piecing light and lighter shades as a design feature in this fisherman's parka from MiH-jeans.com