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Jeans Legends: The General Store

June 8, 2017 Jill Lawrence
Image © Le Fabulleux Roman Du Jean, 1990

Image © Le Fabulleux Roman Du Jean, 1990

Original "cowpoke's" could never have imagined that their everyday work attire would be worn little changed nearly 150 years on.   Both jeans and work shirts were always purchased in the general store - every small town had at least one.   

The story of the "fly rivet" is legendary.    >on the original cowboy's jeans there was a rivet at the base of the buttoned fly for durability and strength.   It was removed not long after being introduced because when the cowboys sat around the campfire at night the rivet became too hot in a delicate place! <   The General Store had a lot of returns from sore cowboys!

The Trucker jacket, originally introduced by Levi and Wrangler,  is an icon of denim style.  Details change; denim shades differ but the identity remains.  Still a highly popular gender neutral denim jacket.  

Vintage Levi and Lee advertising, ©Denim from cowboys to catwalks, a visual history of the world's most legendary fabric (2002)

Vintage Levi and Lee advertising, ©Denim from cowboys to catwalks, a visual history of the world's most legendary fabric (2002)

Printed ads and paper tagging were examples of early clothing advertising.  Designed to be eye catching.   The General Store sold absolutely everything needed for farmers, workers and the homestead so gimmicks and eye catching details were needed to make a sale. Brands used every trick in the book to tell the cowboys about their product.   Lee Jeans co. even went to the lengths of making small dolls "Lee Buddies" dressed in the garments that they wished to promote.  Collectors items today.

©Denim from cowboys to catwalks, a visual history of the world's most legendary fabric (2002)

©Denim from cowboys to catwalks, a visual history of the world's most legendary fabric (2002)

Denim work jackets, still great items today, started their popular life being sold in The General Store.

From The General Store of the 1800's to top fashion store of the 21st century, they have come along way. 

Hardware, workwear,  jeanswear there was little variation of style but it was all available at the General Store.

In Trends Tags jeans legends, cowboys, originals, workwear, railroad denim
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WORKWEAR REVOLUTION: Work in Details

April 24, 2017 Jill Lawrence
image composite ©TheDenimEye2017; individual images l-r ©Edwin, ©TOAST, ©H&amp;M, ©DawsonDenim

image composite ©TheDenimEye2017; individual images l-r ©Edwin, ©TOAST, ©H&M, ©DawsonDenim

Aprons, smocks, bags and holders all having origins in vintage workwear have been re-created in denims both raw rigid ( which will shrink!!) and in washed denims to achieve greater character.

Such fashion, function and home accessory items are a burgeoning cottage craft and gift industry.

above: American night safe banking bag below: Railroad workers caps

above: American night safe banking bag below: Railroad workers caps

True original accessories bring us full circle from the 1800's to 2017 - the shape has changed a little and a lot but the denim, stripes  and colour has hardly changed at all.

 Railroad workers caps
caps 2.jpg
&nbsp;©DawsonDenim

 ©DawsonDenim

Quirky pocket and button detailing makes this Dawson combo a real must-have gender neutral item.

In Trends Tags denim, work style, workwear, aprons, accessories, denim caps, denim bags
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WORKWEAR REVOLUTION: Work in Fashion

April 17, 2017 Jill Lawrence
©Close-Up

©Close-Up

Translations of work style into fashion style denims look more chic and fresh in dark raw rigid denims.   Raw rigids in selvedge indigos - full and baggy with turned cuffs are very masculine.    Saturated dark denims in skimpy sexy styles are totally wearable.

©MatthewAdamsDolan

©MatthewAdamsDolan

In spite of the maxed out volume of these work styles from fashion designer Dolan, the fluidity and texture of the fabrics combine with well cut shapes to achieve super sexy must-have shapes.

©Close-Up

©Close-Up

Hot denim brands and designers have also jumped onto the work style bandwagon recently. Piecing, patching, pocket detail and work stripes nodding back to the original ethos. Brilliant ultramarine blue will ensure that "brilliant indigo" denim lives on and flourishes for a while longer - a refreshing pull away from dirty denim original workwear.

In Trends Tags Denim, denim brands, denim fashion, catwalk, work style, workwear, dungarees, boilersuits, overalls
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WORKWEAR REVOLUTION: Work in Colour

April 10, 2017 Jill Lawrence
composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

Original American workwear was made from brown cotton duck before it evolved to denim.  Shades of green, ochre and khaki soon followed.  The original charm lives on through contrived wear at the edges of the garment body along with the original buttons and braces.   Huge baggy shapes were practical in lightweight colours emulated today as a fashion feature. Zippers were not original details but have been adopted and readily accepted for stylistic embellishments.

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

Work style in olive drab; khaki; saddle brown are seen in flying jackets, work waistcoats and army fatigues.

©BDG/UrbanOutfitters.com

©BDG/UrbanOutfitters.com

Mix it up with fashion pink and soft cinnamon plus work details of crossed brace backs and patched pockets. note the "washed" finish which enhances the seam pucker making the garment look more "original" - hardly so in pink!

©TOAST

©TOAST

.... and soft green aprons worn as a fashion accessory or even a maternity take on work style.

In Trends Tags Denim, workwear, work style, colour, BDG, Toast
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WORKWEAR REVOLUTION: Workwear Origins

April 3, 2017 Jill Lawrence
composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

Indigo denims started life in the 1800's as work garments and denim style has come a long way since then embracing every shape and fit demanded by fashion trends. Paradoxically the origins of workwear denim and style continue to influence fashion denim even now.  Rough textured coarse indigos tinted brown to emulate a "weathered" look and worn torn edges to represent the real original are just two examples of what we do to cheat our way back into history in re-generated styles that fit better than the originals.

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

The romance of indigo was born in many cultures in different ways, from Japanese kimonos to French artisan overalls to American factory and railroad workers. Many such vintage items that still exist are the more charming due to piecing and patching over generations with denim or other local fabrics.. Such garments are now preserved in museums but their spirit lives on in styles and shapes aped by contemporary fashion designers. 

What is remarkable is the way in  which the indigo colour has been either preserved or has faded whilst still retaining its amazing hue.

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

Styles that live on are dominated by the cover-all / flying suit /over-all i.e., originally an all-in-one protection. Now massively popular in denim fashion, RTW and expensive couture versions. More popular than it has ever been, but not for work!    The bib n' brace or dungaree comes and goes in fashion popularity, currently enjoying one of its many revivals mainly in denim or plain cottons enhanced by contrast patching which amusingly emulates the originals.         Enjoying a parallel revival are cotton cords, ribs, ridges, ticking stripes and herringbone tweeds, all reminiscent of vintage workwear.

©LevisStrauss

©LevisStrauss

The original work jean was popluarised by Levi Strauss in the late 1800's. This quickly became the cowboy jean with which we are all too familiar now approximately 150 years later.    The denims are likewise little changed such that Levi closely guards and protects both shape and denim technology continuing to achieve the original looks.

In Trends Tags workwear, denim, Vintage Denim, Vintage Fade, worn, worn out, uniform, Raw denim
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About the Editor

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Denim designer and developer Jill Lawrence founded The Denim Eye to share her knowledge and passion for the blue stuff with a wider audience of like-minded denim lovers. 

Jill is still an active denim designer, crossing continents with her denim visions and working with some of the world's best-known brands and makers. 

The Denim Eye brings an in-depth look at trends and techniques in denim and jeanswear as seen by a creative insider.

Each month there will be a real time trend with twice weekly update posts and insights, where we will share insider knowledge of interest. 

You will be able to buy vintage and archive pieces in our Finds shop, where everything is one of a kind evergreen vintage and occasionally we will offer bespoke new pieces.

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Jill

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